The Threshold

11/30/2010

 

Salter Path

 

It’s funny how things that are happening high in the sky are seldom noticed by humans on the ground.  As we focus our attention here on the surface of planet earth, clouds drift by, birds fly, airplanes crisscross leaving vapor trails.   Unless you are a pilot or flight attendant, the only thing you might remember is the rare rainbow, or violent storm.  Looking up with a clear vantage point, you have a vista in both sunlight and moonlight of wonderful things that have the power to lift you out of your terrestrial rut, if only you would take the time to notice.

 

I sat comfortably on the beach at Salter Path last November and reminisced about earlier, happier times.  It was about 9am, and the sun had just gotten to that level where the heat of its rays was basking the beach.  It was low tide, and I had found a spot earlier on the deserted beach about 100 yards south of a group of surf fishermen.  I had left them alone when I walked by at 6am, and they obliged me as well.  Now isolated except for an occasional beachcomber meandering by near the surf, I went to the backpack and pulled out Diana’s kite.  It was neatly folded in a stiff protective case, and I again marveled at its beauty.  It was a simple x-winger rainbow with long tails of red and yellow ribbons.   Light and easy to get aloft, I had found it a year earlier in a little kite shop in Ocracoke just off the main street.  I fly this kite to commune with her spirit, usually in places where we had spent time in her living years.  I know her spirit is still here on earth and this kite is my antenna.

 

The breeze was gusty and a bit cool, but it swept in off the ocean, being mellowed by the now prominent sun in the east.  I rolled out the line and she took off like a bird without any effort.   She just left my hand and sailed upward toward our rendezvous in the sky.  Short minutes passed as she gained altitude, string played out, and feet then became yards and she was high up there, soaring in the cloudless blue.   She danced left and right, swaying on the gusts, then righting and standing proud with her tails standing out behind.   I settled back into my beach chair, the legs now deeply embedded into the white sand.  I sailed with her in my mind, listening to the rough surf.  Umm, must be a storm out there somewhere, I thought.   The tide was coming in now toward me and I knew that I would have to move.  As the surf climbs the beach, passersby are herded into tight little walking paths between the firm tidal sand and the soft beach up closer to the sea grass.   My solitude was being slowly encroached upon as more walkers appeared.

 

Suddenly a lone seagull swooped into my field of view close to the kite.  I watched in awe as this master of the air soared and glided above us all and I wondered what his view was like.  He was inordinately high up there and not another gull was to be seen around him.  A kindred spirit, I thought, as he banked and turned with the strong sea breeze.  He seemed to acknowledge the kite as a fellow sojourner, flying for the pure joy of it, doing what the Almighty intended.  I wished that I could feel that free.  And then it occurred to me I had watched Diana with the sea birds so many times on our trips to the beach.  Not having lived near the ocean in our lives, we savored each visit, several to this very beach.  And on long walks in the surf and sand, she had always fed the birds.  At the time, I wanted to believe that it was her unabashed sentimentality and love of animals showing through, but now I wondered if she had not been just tuning into God’s plan.  Man had encroached into these creatures’ homes and forced them to adapt.  Perhaps she was just making amends.

 

And now, this gull was circling around her again, with a view of the earth and sky and, yes, heaven above.  The sky was his bounty. He knew she was there and so do I.  And like so many of his brethren before, he welcomed her presence.  Now he was simply waiting for her to break out the bread. 

 

A Night on the Low Road

 

A couple of weeks before her birthday, I began to feel it.  The effects of the approaching anniversary were beginning to pile up.  I could feel it in my body, aching joints and running nose.  But more than the physical effects, the mental strain was more apparent.  There were lapses of judgement, instant rage at even the most minor incidents, inanimate objects suffered my wrath, a zipper, a milk carton,  the cable remote.  I originally thought I was just seasonally off balance, that I dreaded the holidays fast approaching.  But that isn’t really true.  I have always loved the holidays.  I just hate the corruption of the holidays by our consumer culture with wholesale commercialization.   But that’s a different story.

 

It was also soon to be the one year anniversary of Diana’s death.   This event now represented a major hurdle, a dimensional shift of a threshold into my new life.  I have been juggling the past and the present in hopes of formulating a future.   My quest then is finding a balance, what to give up and what to hold onto.  What outcome do I want?  Do I even know the pieces yet?  The time had come to seek some revelation, and the place to do it was on the road.

 

I like to drive at night.  There is something about the blanket of darkness that stimulates my thinking, and I knew that my best insights come at dawn.  I knew that if I wanted to greet the sun at the coast on the Outer Banks, I would need about 6 hours to get there in time.  The question now became, “Just how do I go?”  Did I really want the preferred route of my TomTom GPS?  Just plug in Beaufort, NC and robotic Susan’s soothing voice comes on with a path along the major freeways.  Go I85 to I40 to US70.  I know, I know, it’s quickest, but during the daylight you have the traffic, and the incredible drabness on these highways of endless fast food and gas stations.  If your purpose is to string two GPS locations on the surface of the earth together, I guess this is the way to go.  If, however, your purpose is to connect one spiritual plane with another, there may be a better way.  Of course, traveling at night has its advantages, even on a freeway, and avoiding the humdrum is, after all, one of the reasons to drive a sports car.  Running as fast as this ride can go would surely mitigate some of the boredom of the trip, but that would be only if all the state troopers between here and my destination were soundly sleeping at 3am.  Then, if speed was outside the scope of my purpose here, and the time in which I would be driving was ideal for contemplation, then surface roads and small towns seemed more appropriate.  So with that in mind on that midnight in November, instead of turning right and heading toward the freeway onramp, I made a left and found myself merging onto Highway 24/27, Albemarle Road, heading east toward the Crystal Coast.

 

The road was a two-lane, winding affair for most of the way.  And because of a high dew point, there were patches of fog hanging in the gullies between the rolling hills.  Fortunately, the 350Z simply tracked along, its Zeon headlamps piercing the vapors, so that I could proceed with relative confidence.  Susan’s voice kept me company and the animated GPS display gave me another set of electronic eyes to peer through the fog.   I rolled along passing small hamlets with no street lights, and medium sized communities with a few stop lights that always seemed to be red when I approached.  Why at 2am in a village of 3000 people they would have that light changing was a mystery I would have to review later.  The countryside in this part of the state is mostly rolling hills, ancient mountains actually that had been eroded down so much that they were just pleasant shifts in attitude while the Z gobbled up the miles.  There was very little, if any traffic all along the way for a hundred miles or so until I approached Fayetteville.  This region is dominated by the large military base here, Fort Bragg.  And the road I was on ran right through the post, past the main gate, and rows of shops that cater to the servicemen.  Surprisingly, many of these places were open at 3am.  I guess they take their duty of relieving GIs of their money very seriously.  Plenty of police were out as well.  The bars and pawn shops radiated that aura of neon sleaze and I was creeping along, stopping smoothly at the obscene number of stop lights when a police cruiser pulled in behind to look me over.  I can’t fault the guy.  He was probably wanting to make sure I hadn’t just pulled out of the Kandahar Bar with a few too many beers on my resume. .  But my steering was accurate, I watched my manners, and after a few blocks, the officer pulled around and sped off.  Another two miles of this and I was essentially through the base, and the road turned normal again.  I pulled in to a truck stop along I95 for fuel and a coffee.

 

Driving at night presents many challenges and one of them is finding a decent (and safe) place to pull over for a few hours sleep.  When Di and I were doing long road trips, we usually went to one of these truck oases.  There is something comforting about the big rigs rumbling at idle, and the screech of air-brakes as they come and go during the night.  On one occasion, we were traveling on US66 outside of Albuquerque, NM. That’s right, the original Route 66 back in 1968 before I40 was completed.  I was on leave and we were traveling from my duty station in Van Nuys CA to Indianapolis IN, some 2200 miles.  We pulled into Al Unser’s truck stop, and spent the night in the back of Di’s 1959 Chevy convertible.   In spite of the noise, we managed to get some sleep then, and I was determined to get a few winks at this TOA as well.  But, it’s hard to hide a sports car in the parking lot, as I found out.  If you’re driving a van or a Corolla, nobody pays attention.  If you are in a streamlined red go rocket, it gets noticed.   “Is that your Z?”, the attendant asked.  “Yep.”    “Nice.  Where’ya headed?”  “Oh, just going over to the coast. Time off you know.”  “Yea, that’s what I need. Time off”, he replied.   “OK, you mind if I pull over there and get some sleep?” I asked.  “Hey, no skin off, you know.”  “I’d keep clear of those truck lanes though.  Some of these guys start snoozing before they pull in here.  You know what I mean?”  Yea. Thanks”.   I found an end space protected by a hedge row, tucked in to the cramped Z, and nodded my head back.   Not too comfortable for sleeping, I thought, but at least there is a restroom close by.

 

It must have been around 5am when I began to see the faint glow in the east.  I knew that the earth was rotating under me and the sun was fast approaching our meeting.  I recalibrated the TomTom, and Susan told me again that I was about two hours out.  Well, maybe not if I move the Z a little higher in power curve.   We hit the outskirts of Jacksonville and quickly navigated around the bypass.  The road had long since smoothed out to flat as we had moved onto the coastal plain.   We had also left behind the last of the two-lane and were now cruising on four-lane divided all the way up the coast to Morehead City.  Traffic had been building for an hour and I was glad to finally move on to get a glimpse of the ocean.  Well, it was still not the ocean, but a series of tributaries that work their way inland a few miles and these little cities and developments spring up so that people have a place to put their boats.    Getting to the lower end of Bogue sound, I cut off Highway 24 onto State Road 58, crossed a high bridge and was finally nearing Salter Path.  The sun broke on the horizon as I pulled into one of the public access parking lots.  For six hours I had rolled through the mid-Atlantic heartland, and just as planned, met the new day in the place I needed to be.    Exactly one year before on this date, Diana had passed away, sometime during the night.  I know not exactly when, what precise moment she died, but I knew that exactly one year after, I was bound to meet her again at that time and in a place that we both cherished.

 

Harker’s Island

 

The place doesn’t look like much.  There are lots of shacks and little county roads that let you get around, and it is home to the headquarters of the Cape Lookout National Seashore.  They have a big museum that will tell you everything you want to know about “downeast” culture.  The locals are distinguished with their own accent.  It seems to be a weird mix of English, Irish, Scottish brogue, and a dash of “southern” and you sometimes have the locals repeat what they’ve just said.  This small community has somehow managed to get bypassed in the rush of 21st century civilization in many ways.  Probably not for very much longer though.  I’m sure that McDonalds and the land developers have them on their map.  But for now, it’s a place that you can still characterize as “quaint”. Not quaint and historic in the commercialized sense like Beaufort, just a few miles down the road.   Harker’s Island is still a real place.

 

I sat on the end of the picnic area that’s between the sound and the headquarters building of the national seashore.  It was a long grassy knoll with shelter houses and fire pits.   I had decided to walk to the end far away from the parking lot, assuming that if any other picnics were to occur, they would want the convenience of access to their vehicles.  Another beautiful day here on the edge of the North American continent.  Breeze was almost cold and to be expected in late November.  The waves were choppy and the sky with light wind-swept clouds did little to keep the bright sunshine away.  I had brought my lunch here as Plan B.  Earlier that day I had awoken in my room at the B&B in Beaufort and found a great walk down by the docks and out along the water about a mile and a half to a secluded spot to welcome sol and give thanks.  My spirits were high as I made my way to Harker’s Island.  I planned to catch the first ferry over to Cape Lookout.      

 

If you like to shell, it’s hard to beat Cape Lookout.   The barrier island at the southern tip of the Outer Banks, NC stands about 5 miles off shore and comingles with Shackleford Banks.  On the ocean side there is a sharp drop off to the continental shelf several hundred feet below water, so the large marine shells do not get broken up as they wash ashore.  You can walk for miles out there and if your first instinct is to start picking up all these great shells of all descriptions, it soon becomes necessity to limit the weight of your shell sack and a quest for quality ensues.  Throw back the ones with minor imperfections or cracks because just a few yards down the shore, you find another that is “more” perfect.  And then there are the sea turtles.  You never know when you might have a chance to make one’s acquaintance.   For these and many other reasons, Di and I would take the small ferry boat out there from Harker’s Island in the early morning hours.  If we were lucky we would be able to say good morning to the wild horses munching on the salt grass, or glide over the oyster beds with their egret overseers, or spot an osprey fishing for breakfast.  We bonded to this place and the feeling of nature’s spiritual grandeur would permeate us.  To relive this special bond, I intended to make the pilgrimage once more.

 

I wound down the narrow county road out to the end of the island where there are several commercial ferry services to be found and luckily one was still running ferries, even though the wind was high and the water choppy.  I knew this particular shop because we had used it the last time that Di and I had gone out the Cape.  I asked if “Crazy Dennis” was still making the runs out there, and found that he had retired.  Oh well, to him it was just a business, I suppose.  After I had paid and while waiting on the dock until a few more people showed up, something began to churn inside me.  This was one of those special places and I was here for her, but I was physically alone.  Was it right for me to visit an almost sacred shrine to our togetherness without her?  Is there a higher judgement to be made?  Why am I here?  Yes, we had made a pact to have our ashes spread on the ocean waters at this place.  Yes, I had her ashes with me.   Was it really time for me to perform this act that she had requested?  It was another threshold that I would be passing through, and a big one.  This one could not be undone.

 

The captain emerged from the store and called the boarding.  I stood, but my stomach was in knots.  I was just not ready for this.  I didn’t want to let her go and this was the ultimate symbol of separation.   No, I explained I was feeling ill and I wanted to get my money back.  He gave me a squinty eye and said OK.  I retreated as fast as I could back to the Z car in the parking lot.  I sat for a long time.  How could I have come so far only to finally realize the she is not gone in my mind.  Not just in spirit is she with me.  Physically she is still as much a part of me as my arm or leg.  I knew that I had to find her again.  And so my plan morphed into a picnic.  And now I found myself looking out over the sound, five miles away was the Cape Lookout lighthouse.  It is quite impressive when you are standing near it, but at this distance, it’s large diamond markings are only visible with binoculars.  It looked very lonely, sitting way out there, and even though it was only mid-day, the bright sunlight seemed to wash it and its surroundings in a mural of an immensely powerful seascape.  I sat in my shelter, and began to write my feelings about the day.  My purpose was to bring the love of my life to one of those precious places we shared and part from her.  How wrong could I be?  It was as I wrote down these thoughts that suddenly the lighthouse began to shine.  At mid-day and for some reason, the beaconing light pierced even the brightest sunlight.  It shone every 60 seconds or so blinking directly at me, and I knew instantly that it was her.  She was signaling me, to let me know she was there.  She would always be there waiting for me as she had so many times in our lives together.  And I knew that someday I would finally make the journey to that distant shore, and that lighthouse would become a monument to our lives together and a symbol of our true love. Our ashes would mingle and we would be reunited on that beach and in eternity.